Ski New Mexico

Skiing and Snowboarding in the Land of Enchantment

Archives for February 2022

Gem of the South

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Ruidoso, New Mexico

Drive a couple of hours south of Albuquerque and you’ll find what I consider to be one of New Mexico’s best hidden treasures: Ski Apache. Tucked into the Sierra Blanca mountains at an impressive elevation of more than 10,000 feet, this unassuming family hill sees an average 15 feet of snow blanketing its 750-acres and 1,900 foot vertical drop.

It’s southerly location is only one aspect of Ski Apache that makes this place unique. Since 1993, the area has been owned and operated by the Mescalero Apache tribe. It also remains the only mountain in New Mexico with its own 8-passenger gondola. And it’s surrounded by compelling attractions, including the charming town of Ruidoso and White Sands National Park.

For a small town with a full-time population of about 8,000, Ruidoso offers some big amenities. From shopping local boutique and vintage shops in midtown, to the Ruidoso Winter Park, one of the largest tubing playgrounds in the Rockies, to dining and cultural events, you could spend an entire season exploring all the different activities and attractions in the area.

Naturally, you’ll need a good home base from which to launch all this exploration, and there are some great local options. The Inn of the Mountain Gods resort and casino, also owned by the Mescalero Apache, has deluxe rooms and numerous on-site extras, including several restaurants and its own golf course. Equally posh is the MCM Elegante Lodge and Resort, with in-room jetted tubs and kitchenettes. There are also dozens of quaint cabins, nicely furnished rental homes, and convenient condos around town—many of them pet-friendly.

Wherever you land, start your day at Cornerstone Bakery Cafe for full-service breakfast and an excellent selection of pastries. Tina’s whips up the most (deservedly!) popular breakfast burrito in town. Or try Apache Donuts for a quick morning sweet treat. Coffee aficionados will appreciate the quality brew at Zocca. Or try Sacred Grounds for anything from a quick cappuccino to a full sit-down meal.

When it comes to lunch, make your way to the Village Buttery, a cozy cafe near the heart of town for a bacon, avocado, lettuce, and tomato (BALT) sandwich, and chase it with a piece of their famous Buttermilk Pie. You’ll also find terrific burgers at Hall of Flame, along with irresistible green chile cheese fries. If you’re in the mood for pizza, Cafe Rio is the place.

For a more upscale experience, head to Wendell’s, at the Inn of the Mountain Gods, for steak and seafood. Or try D.H. Lescombe Winery and Bistro, a little down the road in Alamogordo, for fine food and beverage selection. The popular Noisy Water Winery, in Ruidoso, doesn’t have a restaurant, but you can enjoy a wonderful charcuterie board and specialty cheeses along with flights of their locally produced wine—including one made with green chile.

For some additional entertainment, check out the schedule for the Spencer Theater. A work of art itself, this 514-seat performing arts theater rivals similar spaces in much bigger cities. The Spencer attracts world-class acts year-round. Watch the Nutcracker over the holidays, or grab tickets for shows by touring musicians and dance troupes.

The area has some lively history. Billy the Kid is reported to have escaped from jail here, among his other exploits. You can take a drive along the Billy the Kid Scenic Byway for a rolling tour of the area’s Wild West days. The most fun fun-fact however, may be the origins of Smokey Bear, the beloved Forest Service mascot and wildfire crusader. The real-life cub was rescued from a raging fire in the Lincoln National Forest, in nearby Capitan before being relocated to Washington D.C. and taking on the role of America’s most recognizable bear.

Another great attraction in the area is White Sands National Park. About an hour drive from Ruidoso you’ll find the world’s largest gypsum dune field, one of the most beautiful landscapes I’ve ever seen. You can also pay a visit to the nearby Trinity Site, where the first atomic bomb was detonated.  

While the renowned Ruidoso Downs Race Track only operates during the summer, horse lovers will find ample equestrian attractions around the area, even in the winter. Check out “Free Spirit,” a life-size installation at the Museum of the Horse. Or drop by the Kenneth Wyatt and Thunder Horse galleries. 

If all the activity leaves you in need of a little self-care, you’re in luck. The Blue Lotus can help you unwind with massage and facials, along with yoga and Pilates, if that’s your speed. From skiing and riding at Apache, to the family-friendly amenities around town, escape the daily grind and unwind in this gem of the south.

Article by Nick Heil

The Home-Grown, World-Class Retreat

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Taos Ski Valley

One of my favorite rituals after a day tackling the steeps at Taos Ski Valley is to head down the mountain road to the quaint village of Arroyo Seco and order a double scoop of Taos Cow ice cream. Ice cream in the middle of winter? Yep. As a self-proclaimed connoisseur, it’s some of the best I’ve ever tried.

Like Taos Cow, which recently moved into a new facility, lots of changes have been afoot at TSV, and some of those changes have been significant. That’s a good thing, because there have been numerous capital improvements, upgrades, and additions to New Mexico’s marquee ski resort.

The good news that comes along with all the improvements is that TSV hasn’t lost any of its familiar charm and character. I’ve always adored the European atmosphere at the Ski Valley, thanks to the Swiss-German founder Ernie Blake, who envisioned an Alps-style resort tucked into New Mexico’s Sangre de Cristo mountains—and that feeling has been preserved. You can still hang out at The Bavarian, the classic inn at the base of Chair 4 that feels like you’ve been transported to a chalet in the Alps.

But the improvements are welcome, too. Literally at the center of it all is TSV’s new crown jewel, The Blake, the four-star hotel that rises five stories above the base area. The Blake, along with the brand new Blake Residences, offers guests a premium slope-side lodging experience, with a deluxe onsite spa, a great restaurant, and experienced staff on hand 24-7 to help with any needs.

Other excellent lodging can be found throughout the Ski Valley, including the ski-in, ski-out Edelweiss and Snakedance lodges. Looking for a condo or entire mountainside house? A number of turnkey rentals can be found through taosskivalley.com. Here’s more good news: You can now fly direct to Taos, via Taos Air, from Austin and Dallas, Texas, as well as San Diego and Los Angeles.

Another great part of the recent development at Taos is the expanded dining options. Topping the list is 192 at The Blake. The intimate dining room and lounge on the hotel’s ground floor is the go-to spot for discriminating guests for both apres and fine dining. Or try the Blonde Bear Tavern, in the Edelweiss Lodge, also in the base area. Executive Chef Bill Hartig prides himself on producing his meals from scratch, and pairs them with an excellent wine list. It’s worth noting that the fantastic breakfasts at Naranja Cafe come from the same kitchen.

Take a break during your ski day for schnitzel and a mug of German beer on the sundrenched patio of the Bavarian. Stop in at the Taos Ale House, for aprés ski action and some Detroit style pizza.

A short drive to Arroyo Seco will expand your options further, including the well-rated Aceq, serving cozy farm-to-table entrees. Another Arroyo Seco favorite, Sabrosa, does tasty barbecue and excellent margaritas. Venture a couple of miles further to Medley for high-quality fish, steaks, and vegetarian fare, paired with a quality wine list. Or keep it casual at Pizanos, dishing out some of the best pizza in the area.

Need your coffee and pastry fix in the morning? Black Diamond Espresso, in the base area just steps from Lift 1, is the spot. In addition to excellent espresso, the walk-up window also offers a variety of spiced mocha and hot chocolate drinks. Try the Mexican Mocha for a warm afternoon pick-up.

While the Ski Valley puts its main focus on skiing and snowboarding, that’s not the only recreation around. Nearby Williams Lake is popular with backcountry skiers and snowshoers. You can book a snowmobile tour from Big Al’s that will ferry you up to 12,000 feet for some of the most scenic views in the area. Or take a drive down to the Taos Gorge Bridge, where you can ogle at the overlook and, if your timing is right, catch a glimpse of the bighorn sheep that roam the plateau.

Ready to shift into full relaxation mode? Wind things down at the Spa and Wellness Center at The Blake, which offers full service massage and facial treatments. This may be one of the nicest features of the new-and-improved Taos Ski Valley: you still feel like you’re getting a real mountain experience without sacrificing any creature comforts. Comfortable and convenient lodging, a full-service spa, and some terrific food. Oh, and I’m going to put Taos Cow ice cream on that list, too. Taos just wouldn’t be the same without it.

Article by: Nick Heil

Hidden History in the Jemez

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Los Alamos, NM

When I first moved to New Mexico in the late ‘90s, few places piqued my interest more than Los Alamos, the quaint town carved into the eastern slope of the Jemez Mountains. So much history! So much mystery!

My early forays had a narrow focus: to chase powder at Pajarito, the modest-but-fun ski hill five miles west of—and 2,000 feet above—town. But as I discovered all the area had to offer, that powder addiction turned into broader exploration and adventure.

It would be easy to spend days immersed entirely in the history of the Manhattan Project, the infamous, then-classified enterprise to develop the atomic bomb. In fact, Los Alamos might not exist today were it not for the elite scientists who assembled there during World War II, using fake names and false addresses while working long hours in the secret lab. Point of fact: the ski area was originally built to provide the scientists with discrete winter recreation close to home.

Much of Los Alamos’s rich story is on display at the excellent Bradbury Science Museum. But for a deeper dive, visitors can visit the nearby Manhattan Project National Historic Park, ride along with Atomic Tours for narrated local highlights, and make a trip to the Oppenheimer House—the original residence of J. Robert Oppenheimer himself.

Los Alamos isn’t just about the country’s most famous science experiment, however. Long a sleepy hamlet nestled against the hills, these days the town of Los Alamos is a bustling, diverse community with a growing list of amenities and attractions. Winterfest traditionally kicks off the holiday season in early December. In January you can catch the Backcountry Film Festival, featuring some of the year’s best short adventure films. In March, while the days lengthen and warm and before the snow has vanished, Pajarito hosts its lively Skiesta, a kind of Mardi Gras on the slopes.

The region’s cultural and natural history are also worth exploring. The Los Alamos History Museum provides a guided 1.5-mile walking tour of the area that takes you back more than 1,000 years. Better yet, head to nearby Bandelier National Monument to see ancient ruins and cliff dwellings left behind by the Anasazi, who inhabited the Pajarito Plateau for some 400 years. Most recently the land has been occupied by the Jicarilla Apache and Pueblo tribes.

Not far away, along the Jemez Scenic Byway (worth a drive in itself), is the Valles Calderas National Preserve, a vast volcanic basin teeming with wildlife that is popular with cross-country skiers and snowshoers in the winter. If you’ve traveled this far, it’s just a short drive over to Jemez Hot Springs, a cozy resort with naturally fed pools in a rugged mountain setting.

Each season seems to bring more dining and entertainment to town—or at least more people to the existing ones. Among the more popular gathering places is Bathtub Row Brewing, on Central Park Square (and just a block from the Los Alamos History Museum). I’m particularly fond of their flagship beer, the Hoppenheimer IPA. The brewery doesn’t serve food, but locals like to grab tacos from El Rigoberto’s, right next door, to accompany their drafts. Another great local brewery is Boese Brothers, offering quality subs and sandos, along with regular live music.

Los Alamos has a few dining spots worth a visit. For top-notch coffee and fresh pastries, try the French-style patisserie Fleur de Lys on Trinity Drive. You’ll find impressively good sushi at both Origami and Cafe Sushi. There’s a nice, quaint vibe at Viola’s, a family-run cafe with authentic New Mexican offerings. And Blue Window, a moderately upscale bistro, offers entrees ranging from enchiladas to scallops, and a well-curated wine list. Another popular spot in neighboring White Rock, just a few minutes down the road from Los Alamos, is Pig+Fig, a casual cafe with great salads and baked goods. Prefer the true Los Alamos local’s experience? Drop into the Smith’s grocery store, where you’ll find a busy bar and tasty wood-fired pizza.

Lodging in Los Alamos is basic—think Holiday Inn and Best Western—but comfy and affordable. For a splurge, head about 30 miles east to the Four Seasons Rancho Encantado, a deluxe resort tucked into the foothills of the Sangre de Cristo mountains. Visiting Los Alamos entails a slight detour from the primary winter travel corridor between Albuquerque and Taos, but it’s a worthy diversion. Time it right and the Pajarito powder can be excellent and the crowds non-existent. Stay a while and you’ll come away enriched by the town’s compelling history, one of the greatest stories of the 20th century.

Article by: Nick Heil

Festival February In NM

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Who doesn’t need a good festival right about now? There’s just something about putting the words “winter” and “festival” together that teases the senses with everything from the sight of sparkling string lights to the taste of kettle corn and mulled wine to the sounds of acoustic music wafting through saloon doors.
Let’s see what New Mexico has in store for us this snowy February:


RED RIVER
If you scoot up there pretty quick, you can catch the Red River Songwriter Festival Feb. 3-5. Founded in 2012, this 10th Annual event is designed to be intimate and personal. Tickets are officially sold out at this point, but you might be able to score some tickets on their Facebook page (@RedRiverSongs) There will be a variety of solo shows, duo shows, and collaborations between some of the most talented and respected songwriters in today landscape of Americana music. Expect late night informal jams, early afternoon ski runs, and who knows what else. Now that you know, get on their mailing list for next year.


Later in the month, Feb. 24- March 1, celebrate Mardi Gras in the Mountains, a Red River tradition that draws visitors from all over the country. Experience the burning of the tchoupitoulas, and dress up for the Grand Ball. The Mardi Gras Main Street parade showcases local business and their holiday spirit.

SIPAPU
Did someone say FREE?? Yep, that what the 2022 February Fun Fest at Sipapu Feb. 26-28 is…FREE. The main attraction is a giant snow castle built by the Sipapu mountain team. The 2-3-story tall castle is unique every year, but is a veritable snow playground for all ages. Other events, like the costume contest and parade, the Penny Toss and a kids Treasure Hunt all over the mountain provide the setting for a weekend you and your kids won’t soon forget.

TAOS
For more of an adult festival, check out the 35th Annual Taos Winter Wine Festival Feb 3-6. The three-day week-end of events features the culinary artistry in Taos paired with wines from 30 wineries from around the world. Food and wine events include a Reserve Tasting, chef luncheons, aprés ski tastings, and wine dinners. Tickets and schedule here.

SANTA FE
Spread out over two weekends (Feb. 3-13), the Santa Fe Film Festival is one of the oldest film festivals in the world. With more than 500 feature, documentary and short entries from 38 countries, there is something for ev-eryone. On the schedule are Q&As, panels, workshops, red carpet interviews and a mini awards ceremony both weekends. Come in from the cold and check it out here.

RUIDOSO
Down south, our friends in Ruidoso will stage the Annual Vines in the Pines Art and Wine Festival Feb. 19 & 20 at the Ruidoso Convention Center. Taste wines from a variety of New Mexico wineries while you enjoy shopping local arts, crafts, food, and boutique vendors. Ticket price includes entry, a complementary wine glass and tast-ings at each winery. And if your palate runs more towards beer tasting, they’ll have that, too. You might want to bring a wagon–there will be sales by the bottle and the case.