Red River, NM
Red River might be New Mexico’s most authentic ski town. Tucked into a scenic river valley in the Sangre de Cristo Mountains, and surrounded by the Carson National Forest, winter stays cold and snowy. Lift-served skiing began in the 1950s, but these days Red River Ski & Summer Area is a full-blown ski resort, with seven lifts and 64 trails, a world-class ski school, and superior snowmaking. There’s a reason USA Today named it the top ski town in North America, declaring it the “perfect getaway for skiers of all ages.”
Originally built by miners (the local paper is the Red River Miner), this village with a full-time population of around 500 has retained a quaint feel while growing and polishing the things that matter—a quality mountain experience, good food, comfy lodging, and a fun atmosphere for the whole family. Activities abound throughout the season, but the action culminates at the end of February with Red River’s main event: the legendary Mardi Gras in the Mountains. Started in 1992 with support from the Chamber of Commerce, the weeklong event is an alpine version of New Orlean’s famous fete, albeit with a family friendly spin, including parades, costume contests, and a children’s ball. Interested visitors will want to book well in advance as this popular event always fills up and spills over.
You won’t be scrambling to make reservations at stuffy resort restaurants here; Red River is casual and welcoming. Sidle up to the bar, or grab a table, at the legendary Bull o’ the Woods Saloon—“the Bull,” as locals call it—which has been around since 1939, serving burgers and sandwiches, and featuring one of the best beer lists in town. For a more contemporary vibe, stop by the Red River Brewing Company, which opened in 2018. The brewery produces its own craft beer and serves up pit-smoked barbecue, among other tasty menu items. Want more variety? The chicken fried steak at Brett’s Bistro is a perennial crowd-pleaser; Anchovies Pizzaria does great pie; dive into filet mignon and a baked potato at Texas Red’s; or try the enchiladas and rellenos at the Sundance Restaurant.
Start your day of winter play with a hearty breakfast, like the plate-size pancakes, at Old Tymers Cafe. For a lighter bite, grab an espresso and pastry at the Major Bean Coffee and Sandwich Shop. Or try Steam Coffee Co. or Peak Espresso for your caffeine fix.
While the ski area is the main attraction—the lifts whisk you onto the slopes from the edge of town—the area also offers numerous diversions and side trips. Among the most notable is the Enchanted Forest Cross Country Ski Area, a must for anyone interested in skinny skiing. The Enchanted Forest is one of the only dedicated nordic areas in the state, maintaining more than 20 miles of groomed skate and classic trails, nine miles of snowshoe track, and 3 miles of dog-friendly mixed-use terrain. For the truly adventurous, the Enchanted Forest also rents yurts—rigid tents with beds and wood stoves—for a true taste of winter glamping.
The Red River Sled Shed runs snowmobile tours to nearby Bobcat Pass and the surrounding area, offering views all the way to Colorado. Or, you can keep things close to town strolling the shops and galleries, including the Kenneth Wyatt Gallery and the Red River Museum of Fine Arts. Because Red River loves to host families, you’ll discover lots of kid-friendly entertainment around town, too. Every Saturday, staff from the ski area hold a torchlight parade, capped with fireworks. And live music is a staple almost every night, from local folk singers to traveling acts, like The Rocketz and David Graham and the Eskimo Brothers.
One of Red River’s best attributes is its affordability, especially for a ski town. And because the town is compact—just a mile long and a few blocks wide—and situated along the Red River, hotels, condos, and lodges all provide easy convenience to lifts, shops, and restaurants.
Try the Copper King Lodge or Three Bears Lodge for a rustic experience. Billing itself as the “only true ski-in, ski-out experience in Red River,” Copper King has one, two, and three bedroom units, some with full kitchens. At Three Bears, you’ll find cabin-style accommodations just steps from the chairlifts.
If you want a more European flavor, Sitzmark Lodge, in the heart of downtown, offers comfy rooms at a great value in a Tyrollean-style lodge. For those who skew toward familiar brands, the Best Western River’s Edge offers rooms for around $100 that are just a few steps from the water (and just a few more from the chairlifts).
Wherever you settle in, you won’t be too far from the action. Whether it’s a full day of skiing and riding, a lively aprés experience, live music deep into the night, or all of the above, Red River provides.
